talk about it a bit 'of history?
Here we came to the seventeenth century, the fashion called for richer fabrics and lace, lavish and expensive, in Venice, as well as the Gros Point, or Point-cut foliage, was produced Rosaline, delicate, with many small flowers and the point of Venice, with designs reminiscent of the corals.
The Venetian lace were appreciated and paid very well across Europe, they began to imitate them, in some regions of France, unable to reproduce the elegance.
In 1665, Colbert, (in fact the son of a cloth merchant of Lyon), then Prime Minister of Louis XIV, he realized that the importation of textiles and lace was an intolerable burden for the French economy, for which passed a law prohibiting the purchase of those goods abroad. This did not mean that the ornaments were to be banned from clothes and houses, just those employees were to be manufactured in France.
To improve the quality of French needle lace called (and paid handsomely) thirty Venetian lace makers, who did reside mainly in the town of Alençon and Argentan, where they were to teach their art to the native lace. He entrusted the artistic direction of these menifatture to famous designers, who provided the model is particularly elegant, and began the flourishing industry of French needle lace.
Venice had lost its monopoly of this thriving industry. We tried to limit the damage by issuing laws prohibiting foreign travel of lace, with severe punishments, which also affects the families. They even tried to refine the production resulting in beautiful pieces of Rosaline, then they tried to align with the French production : enrichment funds, at first simply increasing la densità delle barrette
poi iniziando a fare delle barrette con disposizione geometrica, come si vedeva nei merletti di Argentan
A Burano si iniziò a produrre un merletto con un fondo completamente a rete, quello che ancora oggi conosciamo come merletto di Burano, che era simile a quello di Alençon, senza eguagliarne l'eleganza per quel che riguarda i disegni.
Questi nuovi merletti avevano in comune la leggerezza, e la facilità di manipolazione. La moda intanto era cambiata, aveva nuove esigenze, gli abiti erano ricchi di fiocchi e gale, che non potevano essere fatti con gli antichi pizzi rigidi come sculture, per questo i nuovi merletti erano l'ideale.
Ma le leggi di Colbert non colpirono solo i merletti. Furono vietate anche le importazioni di ricche stoffe orientali, i Damaschi, e quelle stampate che arrivavano dall'India (le indiennes, appunto). Per ovviare a queste restrizioni, nel Sud della Francia si iniziò proprio allora a produrre il famoso Boutis, in sostituzione delle indiennes, mentre i damaschi furono sostituiti con il ricamo Colbert, che prese il nome proprio dal famoso ministro.
Needlebook ricamato a Colbert |
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